Arhanta Yoga Teacher Training, Khajuraho, Madhya Pradesh, North India – February 2025
I recently had an unforgettable experience learning Classical Hatha Yoga while spending 26 nights in a traditional Indian ashram, deep in the desert of Madhya Pradesh.
The intensive four-week, 200-hour yoga teacher training program followed the traditional Gurukula system, an ancient Indian method where students live, work, and study with their teacher (guru meaning teacher, and kula meaning family). The curriculum covered daily asana practice (steady, comfortable postures that cultivate a balanced state of body and mind), yogic philosophy, pranayama, anatomy, and the discipline required to uphold this lineage of knowledge, passed down by Swami Sivananda and Swami Vivekananda. 100% attendance was mandatory—every element was crucial to the whole experience.
Life at the Ashram
Our accommodations were simple: basic rooms with a ceiling fan, single beds, a mosquito net, and an attached bathroom with only a tap, sink, and bucket—hot water required a walk to the common laundry area. The beds were hard, the rooms cold, and daily cleaning was our responsibility. It was far from a hotel stay, but that was the point.
Eighteen of us, from different parts of the world, arrived as strangers but became close friends over the month. Each morning began at 5:30 am with rooftop meditation overlooking the mountains, in the peaceful rural surroundings of the ashram, located 10 km outside Khajuraho. Cows, peacocks, and the occasional scorpion wandered the grounds, while local staff tended to the rice and vegetable fields. The sunsets were incredible.
We were not allowed to leave the ashram except on Wednesdays—our designated day off. That was our opportunity to take a rickshaw into town, enjoy coffee at a local café, shop for supplies, and explore the stunning 1,000-year-old Chandela temples, commonly known as the “Kama Sutra” temples.
The Yoga Teacher Training Experience
Once a week, we took a sunrise walk through nearby villages, home to buffalo, cows, and curious locals who stared as our group of 18 made its way through their world. The dry, rocky terrain was tricky to navigate in the dark, and avoiding cow dung became an early morning challenge. Being one of the older participants, I was extra mindful not to trip or lag behind. Despite the physical demands, this weekly walk became a treasured moment in an otherwise rigorous six-day schedule.
Learning to teach a 90-minute yoga class was a gradual process. We memorised 26 postures in English and Sanskrit, their benefits, and how to adjust students—all while keeping track of time. Daily three-hour theory classes covered anatomy and yogic philosophy, providing deep insights into both the physical and mental aspects of yoga. Sitting cross-legged on the floor for hours, absorbing complex concepts, and rushing between classes with only 10-minute breaks made for an intense learning experience. Punctuality was non-negotiable.
There was laughter, frustration, and occasional embarrassment as we pushed ourselves beyond our limits. By 8:30 pm, after the evening program—which included ecstatic dance, Kundalini yoga, chanting, and self-study—I was more than ready for lights out. Exhausted, yet fulfilled.
The Mental Challenge
There were moments I wanted to quit. My mind played tricks on me: I’m too old for this. My knees hurt. Why am I doing this to myself? But each morning, I woke up, got dressed, and carried on. The thought of quitting and feeling like a failure was worse than the discomfort.
The training challenged me in unexpected ways. Years of considering myself physically fit meant little when I realised how much I had neglected my mental agility. Learning to memorise, stay mentally resilient, and not crumble under pressure was the real test. Our instructors pushed us hard—some students dropped out. I was completely out of my comfort zone.
I cried in frustration at times, but there was no space to dwell on it—I had to keep moving forward. Over time, I adjusted, accepted, and adapted.
The Food Challenge
The ashram followed a strict vegan North Indian diet, which remained the same every day. Breakfast was bananas and oats with weak cardamom tea. Lunch was potatoes and pea curry, sometimes with eggplant, served with rice, dhal, and chapati—a triple-carb meal, as I called it. Dinner was nearly identical. I lost 5 kg!
By the end of the first week, I knew I had to supplement my meals. On our day off, I bought a kettle and some much-needed supplies—boiled eggs, instant coffee, and chocolate. Absolute heaven! My ultimate luxury was a 90-minute Ayurvedic oil massage followed by a hot shower—the perfect reset.
The Final Push
As the final days arrived, so did the pressure of exams. We were nervous. After all the effort, we desperately wanted to pass and earn our certificates. The assessment consisted of two parts: teaching a 90-minute asana class and a two-hour written exam. Writing by hand for that long was its own challenge—I’ve been typing for 30 years!
But in the end, we all passed with flying colours. The celebrations were emotional—hugs, tears, and overwhelming relief. We had done it.
The Takeaway
I left with a deep sense of achievement—and an equal sense of relief that it was finally over! This yoga teacher training experience was life-changing, pushing me to confront my limits, overcome doubts, and build resilience.
